I can't pretend to the title of travel enthusiast if road trips are not top on my itinerary. The fabulous thing is that my line of work in culture, arts and tourism constantly throws me on the travel route –intra state, interstate and international.
As you read this, I'm in Osogbo, the Osun State capital, for the 2013 edition of Osun- Osogbo Festival –a two-week fiesta growing into a grand cultural convocation and fast attracting sponsorship from corporate Nigeria and deep-pocket culture lovers.
The festival opened on Monday and already, Osogbo is in high spirit as the throbbing beats of celebration encase the ancient city. This is my first visit to the landlocked state since its creation in 1991. The goddess of Osun River has bequeathed her watery habitat and the state with her name; but not exclusively.
She also plays a significant role in all of these festivities colouring the city presently. Her followers and other citizens of the city will sustain her lore and spiritual relevance in their lives through series of ritualistic events in Osogbo as the fest progresses. However, as a matter of personal faith, the famed Yoruba goddess and her legendary fertility powers do not fascinate me.
It is the city itself I'm drawn to for quirky reasons. Although a bit timid in character for a chronically urbanised Lagos dweller that I am, Osogbo has its charms and endearing qualities. One standout feature is the relative civility of the indigenes- whether on the roads, in commercial transactions or just plain old interaction; you don't encounter the trademark bluster that is a pervasive characteristic of Lagosians interfacing.
To help along this civil path, Ipinle Omoluabi (the town of the noble person) is the byword Osun State has adopted to entrench in its citizens the age-long Yoruba lifestyle of ennobling virtue, ethics and discipline. This doesn't rule out the possibility that a few 'stray dogs' and rebels in the city would opt out of the dignifying omoluabi title for the dishonouring omo buruku (the villainous son/daughter) toga.
The good thing is that crime and criminality is at its barest minimum in this town that goes to sleep by 8.00 p.m. I spotted non-threatening, non-intimidating police presence just once in five days during an early evening drive through the Government Reserved Area, G.R.A. Another endearing aspect of Osogbo is the commercial mini-van that populates the capital city like the yellow Danfo bus populates Lagos.
Affectionately nicknamed Korope (after its match-box size), the dark blue commuter vans are everywhere, shuttling around town with their commuters like busy bees going to and fro a hive. I start to imagine that if I −for whatever reason− were to live in Osogbo, it'd be pragmatic to drive one of these 'match-box' vans for daily commuting. A comfort I'd have is that the local mechanics are probably wizards at fixing the vehicle's malaise in whatever diagnosis.
Why this reasoning? Heck! It's tough enough locating a competent mechanic in Lagos, one who has the technical know-how to fix a 2012 model car. Many mechanics don't keep up with modern car technology neither do they brush up on skills some of them acquired 20 years or more ago fixing phased out cars such as Peugeot 504, Nissan Bluebird and Mercedes Benz 200.
So, a lot of their tinkering –particularly in car electrical and internal engine system repairs is trial and error. Now think how precarious the situation is with Osogbo mechanics slightly less exposed to the contemporary world of car science –I may be wrong in my assumptions; therefore, no offence meant to the advanced and hardworking vehicle repairers in Osun State. Finally, the hospitality industry is booming within the city to meet the influx of investors, city developers and tourists.
For as little as N5,000, visitors can secure decent bed and breakfast –not short-time accommodation o− in hotels (or more like guest houses) which provide bare comforts− bed, shower, TV, air-conditioning and breakfast.
At that rate, forget free wireless Internet access, continental menus or variety of satellite channels (if you'd never loved Africa Magic Yoruba, get ready to be converted in Osogbo because it's either that or the local TV channels).
While the hospitality culture is nowhere comparable to developed tourism economies or hospitality industries around the world, Osun is obviously preparing to host the influx of visitors the rapidly expanding city will witness in years.
A free tip-off for Osun hotel proprietors is to keep the noise around the guest areas at zero level; it's nerve racking to be jarred out of leisurely sleep by 7.00 a.m. by the jabbering of hotel staff carrying on friendly banter (for more than 30 minutes!) on top of their voices in the hallway leading to your room. That's a no-no in hospitality!! Anyway, my expectations are not high in this regard.
I'm just delighted to witness my first Osun-Osogbo cultural festival; experiencing Osogbo's baby steps at catering to a sophisticated traveller is an additional encumbrance to tolerate.
It only crystallises my fears about mechanics in this city among other challenges faced by a rustic clime endeavouring to meet the service demands of a contemporary world. That being said, Osun remains a fascinating subject for the promise it holds.
